Stephane Rolland - Futuristic Retro Collection

Not every designer can draw inspiration for a lush haute couture collection from wallpaper, but that's just where Stephane Rolland looked for his winter 2010 display.

"There was this amazing wall-covering at this apartment in New York, really elaborate and full of tubing," said the French designer in a pre-show interview with The Associated Press. "I wanted to recreate those walls."

Upon that unusual foundation, Rolland built a graphic, geometric collection that evoked Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, drained of his signature bright primary colors.

Elaborate mosaics made of fabric-wrapped plastic tubes, like bits of a plastic straws, hung from the hems of abbreviated cocktail dresses in gray and camel cashmere. Gowns of sheer silk were covered in leather lozenge-shaped appliques, like the scales of a giant lizard.

The dresses, with their powerful shoulders, dipping backs and irregular, rounded cutouts, had a retro-futuristic feel about them -- as if Rolland was channeling the Space Age as imagined in 1973.

"There's something architectural, something sculptural, something geometric and beautiful" about the collection, said French actress Emmanuelle Beart, from her front-row perch. "(He) is someone who's got a real vision, something that's unique and out-of-the-ordinary."

Rolland, a favorite of Middle Eastern royals, banked on the presence of some of his ultra-weathy couture clients to launch a wildly expensive line of custom handbags with 22-karat gold metalwork and diamond-encrusted closures.

The bags, a day purse and an evening clutch made by an exclusive French leatherwear atelier, start at euro10,000 ($NZ22,675) and go way up from there, depending on the client's specifications.

When asked how much a clutch that scintillated with 2,500 diamonds would fetch, Rolland stayed mum, raising his eyebrows enigmatically.

Source: Stuff.co.nz

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Coco Chanel New Film

Coco Chanel changed the face of fashion. Bravely modern in the early 1920s - a time when corsets were compulsory - she got women out of their fussy dresses and into trousers, short skirts and stylish fitted jackets.

She gave us the little black dress, created Jackie O's famous wardrobe and that famous Chanel fragrance. She was still working when she died in 1971 aged 87.

Coco avant Chanel is the story of the young Coco and the path that led her to become a designer. She's played by French actress Audrey Tautou who described the designer saying” “she had a lot of look and talent taste and this look and observation. That was her genius.

“She was such a brilliant woman she was a genius. Everything she did, everything she built is still actual and modern because she was a unique woman.”

Coco never married but was rumoured to have had many affairs.

The film centres around significant relationships Coco had with two men. Rich playboy lover Benoît Poelvoorde - who introduced her to her future clientele. And her great love, Boy Capel who also financed Coco’s first boutique.

It was a tough role for American actor Allesandro Nivola - who plays an Englisman that speaks in French throughout the film - he only had a basic grasp of the language when he got the role.

Nivola said “it was completely exhausting and nerve wracking not to mention that I needed to learn to play polo, and play piano and waltz and…”

Audrey Tautou has had the seal of approval from current Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld for her portrayal of Coco. While director Anne Fontaine says the film couldn’t have gone ahead without her in the starring role.

“Physically she is incredibly close to Gabrielle Chanel. It’s incredible when I met Audrey, in 4 or 5 minutes I thought it’s incredible she's there in front of me.”

Tautou said “to play her how we know her like at the end of the movie is not that difficult because you have all the books videos and pictures, witnesses to play her before that it's more unknown world so it's more difficult to propose a character who has the potential to become the person that everyone knows.”

Like Chanel, Audrey Tautou is famed for her elegance and delicate beauty and while it was masculine tailoring that impressed Chanel, it’s masculine pastimes that Tautou loves, especially rugby and the All Blacks.

“Yes of course they are very impressive and I like when they lose to France! No one will come to my movie after this sentence!”

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Source: 3 News

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Paris Fashion Week: Men Wearing Pink

Paris - French label Thierry Mugler was channelling Miami Vice with a vibrant, '80's-inspired show on Friday aimed at men with attitude enough to wear pink.

Designer Rosemary Rodriguez delivered what she called a "bad boy in pastel colours", serving up slim, lightweight pantsuits in citron, lime and bubblegum shades for the label's spring-summer 2010 collection.

"It's about classics with a twist, preppy basics with pimpy touch, Miami Vice with an edge," she said in a pre-show interview.

Rodriguez, who was presenting her third menswear show for Mugler, paired sheer dress shirts in pastel polka dots with mix-matched linen and cotton separates. All looked crisp and eminently wearable.

Rodriguez's Mugler man was also sporty, clomping down the catwalk in oversized white basketball shoes with extra-tall tongues embellished with the brand's star logo.

Mugler, a mythic name in the 1980s, has struggled to find its footing since the departure of its founder and the subsequent closure and re-launch of the label.

The brand's managing director, Juan Penuela Vallejos, said he was confident in Mugler's ability to rise from the ashes - even given the current dismal outlook for retail fashion.

"The brand is coming back, slowly but surely," he said in a pre-show interview.

Source: News 24

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