Yves Saint Laurent
Power dressing with Parisian flair was on display on the Yves Saint Laurent runway. Stefano Pilati did the season’s tough-chic vibe best, with pieces that are truly timeless instead of costumey 1980s throwbacks. A glossy black biker jacket with a subtle studded collar, white poplin shirts with volume through the sleeves, a high-waist pinstripe pencil skirt with a cummerbund belt, an elongated pinstripe jacket to wear with anything — even on its own. This collection was about real clothes for real women who go to the office, the grocery store and a dinner party, all in one day. Pilati even had the sense in these recessionary times to dispense with the tedious red carpet gown finale and instead show a version of Le Smoking, a black velvet tuxedo dress with a plunging collar.
Comme des Garcons
The quiet show, a poetic fusion of masculine and feminine, was a reminder that the avant-garde is alive and well. Models’ faces were wrapped in pieces of tulle with a glittery red lip print off to one side, like a parting kiss. The collection began with the idea of a simple Army jacket, shown deconstructed, spliced together with panels of soft plaid or check blankets, then marked with white trompe l’oeil line drawings of pockets, hinting at a missing person or an alter ego. The looks flowed seamlessly, jackets and cozy blanket leggings into romantic skirts and finally, sheer peach double layer dresses with pearls and bits of tulle trapped inside like fading memories.
Source: Los Angeles Times
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