Monday, October 5, 2009

Paris Fashion Week: Emanuel Ungaro Collection With Lindsay Lohan

It was a deadly collision of celebrity culture and fashion culture on Sunday at the debut of the new Emanuel Ungaro collection with Lindsay Lohan as artistic advisor and Estrella Archs as designer. When Lohan came out for a runway bow, her eyes were full of tears. And it's easy to see why. After all the hullabaloo over her appointment a month ago, with some fashion insiders suggesting it was an insult to anyone who had ever really worked in design, it had to have been the walk of shame to end all. 

The fashion crowd is a tough one, and the fangs were out for this collection from the beginning. Unfortunately, the clothes--reportedly whipped together in a mere three weeks -- didn't do anything to defy low expectations. 

It's difficult to know whom to blame -- Lohan for taking the job or Ungaro President Mounir Moufarrige for thinking he could install a troubled Hollywood starlet with no fashion training at a venerable French house (even one that cycles through designers faster than Lohan cycles through rehab stints). Or maybe it's the fault of the industry in general, which has put a premium on fast, flashy and addictive fashion, over forward-thinking and creative fashion. 
The impulse to focus on the house's signature shade of hot pink was a good one, and that's how the collection began, with a tight minidress draped over one shoulder. There were a lot of minidresses in this show, many of them so short, they seemed to be inviting a TMZ crotch shot. 

The second design element was the heart, in a repeating sequin pattern on one jacket and repeating cutouts with sequins peeking out from underneath on another. These were partytime clothes -- ruched leggings in bright blue and purple (Lohan has her own line of leggings too -- 6126), pink harem pants and bandeau bikini tops with heart-shaped charms nestled between the breasts. 

But by far the worst offense were the glittery heart-shaped pasties worn under suit jackets. In a word, why? They were just begging to be laughed at. A larger version of the heart pasties also turned up on some of the models' heads. 

Nothing in the collection evidenced any real skill or discernible design work. In fact, you could probably find a lot of it already on the shelves at Kitson. I did hear someone remark that they liked the shoes, which had narrow, stair-step heels. 

Still, there's really no defending this misguided collection, other than as a desperate bid for attention from a house that hasn't mattered since its founder retired in 2004. I just don't think it's the kind of attention they had in mind.

Source: Los Angeles Times

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Monday, September 28, 2009

John Galliano: "Seducing All The Senses"

The designer - who works for Christian Dior, as well as his own self-titled label - loves catwalk shows because they bring his creations to life. 

He explained: "If a picture paints a thousand words, a show has 20 minutes to bring the muse, the mood and the feel of a whole season to life. I want to seduce all your senses. 

"If the clothes are the script, the models are the silent sirens that have to bring the story alive. I love using theatre and magic to tell the tale." 

Unlike other designers, John denies having celebrity muses, preferring to make up his ideal women in his head. 

He told Britain's Elle magazine: "I have two mistresses. For John Galliano, she is very English in her soul. For Dior, she is very French. Dior is a beguiling, feminine, yet feisty lady. 

"She is elegant, unpredictable and utterly mesmerising. That is the essence of Dior."

Source: Bulgarian Fashion

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Monday, September 21, 2009

Betty Jackson's Spring/Summer 2010 Collection


Soft, sweet and saucy was the message from Betty Jackson’s spring/summer 2010 collection.

Her inspiration was the idea of a French demoiselle being filmed by Jean-Luc Goddard in Shanghai, leading to a lot of ooh-la-la and some extremely wearable clothes.

Ruffles, frills and flounces were a key detail whether worn as a ruff, sparkling with crystals at the neck, decorating a peplum jacket or trimming the hem of a jacket or skirt. The bra-bodice, little bloomers and French knickers were equally important to the look - a trend increasingly apparent at London Fashion Week.

Here, at Jackson, they came in contrasting pastel, floral prints, in shades of ice-pink and mint, and designed to be seen - beneath rough linen jackets, trimmed with broderie anglaise, worn with floppy, floral trousers, or worn over button-to-the neck blouses.

The boudoir theme was also echoed in little floral sundresses with draped hips, which showed a frill of purple lace at the décolletage. In more minimal, contemporary mode were short-sleeved, navy dresses with a pleated detail on the bodice and a to-the-knee skirt; easy coats, tunics and crop-trousers in beige.

A-line coats, smocks and waisted dresses came in silver lame and a rose-pink brocade, often accessorised with a sparkly ruff for a funky, but flattering look for after-dark.

Source: Telegraph.co.uk
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Monday, September 14, 2009

Lindsay Lohan: Got Some Nerves

Lindsay Lohan is "nervous" about the upcoming House of Emanuel Ungaro fashion show. 

The 23-year-old star, who was unveiled as the French fashion house's artistic advisor earlier this week, can't wait for the Paris Fashion Week show, but is anxious about how the clothes will be received.

She explained: "I'm nervous about the show the way I get nervous about a film. Maybe a little bit more about this because it's a little more personal."

The 'Mean Girls' actress added any criticism will feel particularly harsh as she feels so closely linked to the brand.

She said: "In a film I'm playing someone else and people can relate to that character. This is very much me and I'm putting all of my efforts into it."

Lindsay - who already has her own range of leggings and fake tan - will work with Spanish designer Estrella Archs, giving her own ideas and input into upcoming collections.

She said earlier this week: "I kind of oversee everything Archs does, while working with her. Different generations have different ideas."

Designer Amy Molyneux - who already works for the French label - said of Lindsay's appointment: "She does have an eye for fashion. I like the way she dresses. Her house is a mini-department store. She changes outfits five times a day."

Source: Stuff.co.nz

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Monday, September 7, 2009

Sundance Channel Airing 4 Big Fashion Designer History

Los Angeles - Sundance Channel is set to give viewers a rare look behind the velvet rope of runway shows. The four-part original fashion series "The Day Before" will cover the global fashion scenes and calendar.

Directed by Loic Prigent, the series will give viewers an inside look at the creative process and drama leading to some of the most prestigious fashion shows in top fashion cities.

Starting on Wednesday, September 9 at 10 p.m., "The Day Before Sonia Rykiel" will feature the French fashion designer known for her chic and playful knitwear. The Parisian runway show in October marks her house's 40th anniversary.

On September 9, "The Day Before Proenza Schouler" will feature designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez send out their Fall 2009 collection in New York in February.

Friday will feature "The Day Before Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld" will center on the highly revered Karl Lagerfeld as he presents his Fendi Fall 2009 collection in Milan in March.

The last day will be "The Day Before Jean Paul Gaultier," an episode which showcases Jean Paul Gaultier's haute couture collection in a Paris show.

The series will capture the designers at their key moment when creativity and business come together.

"The Day Before" will air on the Sundance Channel from September 9.

Source: AHN

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Monday, August 31, 2009

Crystal Renn, A Plus Size Model On The Roll

New York - Crystal Renn was miserable as a super-thin model who had heart palpitations when she'd worry that there might be calories in Diet Coke. 

Her moment of epiphany came when "I couldn't walk another step without being exhausted, or having hair clumps falling out." She knew she needed to live in the body she was supposed to have — specifically a curvy size 12.

In a new memoir "Hungry," Renn, now a plus-size model, exposes her struggles with weight, health and self-esteem, fueled by the industry she says she still loves.

That is, she loves it now that she has been accepted — even embraced — by the fashion world.

"I got to my lowest point, when I couldn't go lower, and it was either, 'I'm going to die and not accomplish the dream,' or, 'I can become a plus-size model and keep the dream,'" she said in an interview. "I am healthy now, the healthiest I've ever been in my life — both physically and mentally."

Writing "Hungry" with Marjorie Ingall for Simon & Schuster was an important part of the healing process, said Renn, 23.

She had told her story before, but always in a quick hit for some magazine celebrating the novelty of an hourglass shape on its pages. The book is her attempt to move the needle on how people — everyone from wide-eyed young girls to jaded fashion insiders — perceive beauty.

"I'd like to see everyone take on the attitude that there are women of all different shapes and sizes as 'the beauty ideal,' and that it's not one type or another. There are women who are naturally a size 2 — you can't forget them, and that's discrimination the other way," Renn said. "All women bring something different to the table and we have to appreciate them all."

Some in the fashion, modeling and magazine industries have been receptive to the idea, she said, noting that she's still working with her fuller figure in Vogue, Glamour, on the runway with Jean Paul Gaultier and in ads for Dolce & Gabbana.

Source: Newsday

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Monday, August 24, 2009

Anna Wintour, Rebooting an Ailing Fashion Industry?

For one star-studded evening, it seemed like the good old days of 2007 for the beleaguered New York fashion world. Designers, models and actresses strutted along the red carpet to honour the most powerful figure in their industry – Anna Wintour, the legendary British editor-in-chief of US Vogue. 

They were attending last week’s glitzy premiere of The September Issue, a fly-on-the-wall documentary by film-makers given unprecedented access to the hallowed portals of the fashion bible and the famously formidable force that leads it.

Designers such as Vera Wang, Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan and Sean “Diddy” Combs and actresses Sienna Miller and Renee Zellweger joined a clutch of statuesque models, assorted fashionistas and Manhattan power players for the splashy event. 

Peering out from beneath her distinctive pageboy haircut and occasionally donning her trademark dark sunglasses, Miss Wintour, 59, was also there, of course.

The behind-the-scenes footage follows Miss Wintour and her team for eight months during 2007 as they put together the September issue – traditionally, the most important of the year as the magazine is packed with adverts aimed at autumn shoppers. 

The edition turned out to be the biggest in industry history, weighing in at a whopping five pounds and 840 pages, included 725 of glossy premium-cost ads. It confirmed the magazine’s behemoth status.

And the cover boasts the sort of mass appeal articles – “Stylish Steals and Smart Splurges” and “Fall Fashion Fun” – that have previously been anathema to the unapologetically elitist Miss Wintour during her two-decade reign.

There is little doubt that McKinsey will recommend much deeper cuts and job losses, although the New York Post reported on Friday that for the French fashion shows, Miss Wintour will be staying at the Ritz in Paris as usual, with little expense spared for her entourage. 

With less than three weeks before the start of New York Fashion Week, the mood in the world fashion industry capital is grim. The event was once synonymous with extravagance, excess and self-congratulation, but now insiders are focused on simple commercial survival. 

So the release of The September Issue, with its reminder of a now apparently halcyon epoch, so recent yet so remote, is providing some much-needed relief for the industry. It might also offer some valuable ammunition for the bean-counters of McKinsey.

Source: Telegraph.co.uk

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