Thursday, April 30, 2009

Dita Von Teese "Date with Castelbajac"


Dita Von Teese is said to be dating a young French aristocrat.

The 36-year-old burlesque star has been romancing Count Louis-Marie de Castelbajac, 11 years her junior.

The 25-year-old is the actor-son of fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and ex-wife Catherine de Castelbajac, who dated Bill Koch and the late Ron Silver.

"We’re all shocked they’re together," a friend of Castelbajac told the New York Post.

"She’s really robbing the cradle."

The pair were seen hanging out at the Coachella Music Festival in the US.

Von Teese - born Heather Sweet - married shock rocker Marilyn Manson in November 2005.

She filed for divorce in December 2006 citing "irreconciliable differences" following reports he was dating Evan Rachel Wood, his now girlfriend.

A representative for Von Teese was unavailable for comment.

Source: The Insider

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Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Sonia Rykiel Lost Gabrielle Greiss

Another great creative director to leave, Gabrielle Greiss has left French fashion house Sonia Rykiel less than 18 months after becoming creative director of its main fashion line.

Nathalie Rykiel, French fashion house president, told WWD: "We separated by mutual agreement," adding that: "I have put in place a design studio, with a certain number of people under my artistic direction and of course, that of Madame Rykiel." That may conclude it all.

Central Saint Martins-trained Greiss was promoted to creative director in 2007, having worked as Madame Sonia Rykiel's chief assistant for three years. Prior to joining Sonia Rykiel, Greiss had worked at Lanvin, Anna Molinari and Martine Sitbon.

That may be sad but who will replace the creative director position?

Source: Vogue

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Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Rachael Taylor on New Chloe Store in LA


She gained reputation being one of the rising actress in Hollywood, but the Aussie actress Rachael Taylor fashion style focus on the pants hit the depths of bad taste at the launch of French designer label Chloe's Los Angeles store.

The Tasmanian looked less than comfortable when she fronted up beside the likes of glamour girls Kate Bosworth, Chloe Sevigny and Maria Sharapova at the event, held at LA's Milk Studios.

Hosts Bosworth and Sevigny bagged the best looks from the Chloe collection, leaving Taylor - also dressed by the fashion house - with the label's MC Hammer-style harem pants.

The red-carpet faux pas was a slight hiccup for Taylor, who most recently starred alongside veteran actor Alan Rickman and Star Trek leading man Chris Pine in the US wine flick Bottle Shock.

The 24-year-old star made her name in the US after being cast in the blockbuster Transformers.

Thankfully, it's not all Hollywood glamour parties and movie sets for the actor, who is also studying international relations at Sydney University through correspondence.

Source: AdelaideNow

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Monday, April 27, 2009

'40s Theme for Louis Vuitton Prefall 2009

World-famous French fashion house Louis Vuitton introduces its women's Prefall 2009 collection. For this collection, designer Marc Jacobs returned to the '40s theme with the mood becoming simpler, the silhouettes softer, the colours more subdued. What remains is the luxury - the lace, the rich embroideries and a touch of fur.

While tailoring remains structured, the focus shifts from the shoulders to the waist, with belted coats and fitted jackets, the latter balanced by pencil-slim or full ballerina skirts. Ladylike sleeves stop just above the wrist, while cropped pants reveal a well-turned ankle.

Dresses play a leading role, with a fitted, short-sleeved dress in beige wool worn over a fine polo-neck for the day; while two softer designs in silk showcase the season's key prints: a bold paisley pattern in rich burgundy and orange stands out on a neat shift, while a ribbon print twirls on a draped dress with a high, ruffled neck.

Blue, burgundy and beige are joined in the colour palette by the staple charcoal grey on a sharply tailored skirt suit, or a full-length belted coat with a broad fur collar.

Black moves elegantly from day to evening with rich textural effects. A sweeping silk gown is edged with lace, while a shocking pink cocktail dress reveals its black lining. The tuxedo comes with wide cropped pants and a jacket worn open over a white ruffled blouse.

The season's stand-out ribbon motif makes its way onto accessories including wool hairclips, high-waisted belts, soft lambskin gloves, retro-chic sunglasses and a short mink polka dot scarf. Fashion jewellery plays on elaborately beaded outsize brooches.

Shoes tower on oversized platforms and high, slender heels. They are given a sophisticated evening feel in richly coloured satin and velvet, embellished with bows, tassels and sequined embroidery.

The bag of the season comes with supple pleats, tassels and a drawstring in a mix of shiny leather and soft monogramme-embossed suede in taupe and brown.

Source: Bangkok Post

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Friday, April 24, 2009

Balmain Fever!


There is simply no stopping ‘Balmania’, the fashion cult that surrounds the distinctive - and hugely expensive - designs created by Christophe Decarnin.

Decarnin is the king of the rock chick revival, the man who has turned the old dowager of French fashion, Balmain, into a bang up-to-date dancing queen.

Gwyneth Paltrow, ‘Bond Girl’ Gemma Aterton, Jennifer Connelly, Diane Kruger and a posse of Vogue-istas have already fallen under the glitzy Decarnin spell.

Now, even Michael Jackson and our own Kate Moss have caught the Balmain Bug - and have been providing exclusive previews of next autumn/winter’s disco-inspired collection.

Jackson, who is due to start a 50-date O2 marathon in London in July, has been photographed wearing the crystal-and-sequin tiger-print T-shirt.

Perhaps it was his reward for the fact Decarnin played Jackson’s ‘Don’t Stop Til You Get Enough’ at the Balmain catwalk show in Paris in March.

‘Mossie’ obviously can’t get enough either. She has tossed aside the vintage pieces she adores in favour of ‘Balmania’. She wore one of Decarnin’s hologram-beaded, body-con ‘bird’ dresses, so-called because the shoulders are like wings - to this week’s unveiling of the ‘White Light’ collection, held at Altitude on the top of the Millbank Tower in London. ‘White Light’ was designed by the avant-garde silversmith and jeweller, Shaun Leane, renowned for his collaborations with Alexander McQueen and Daphne Guinness, and crafted by Steinmetz Diamonds for the Forevermark Precious Collection.

Meanwhile, Beyoncé and Rihanna have had to be content with this summer’s Decarnin for Balmain collection. Both were spotted in Los Angeles in recent days, wearing versions of the embellished military jacket. Rihanna’s braided denim one costs £2,920 on net-a-porter.com; the sky’s the limit for Beyoncé’s crystal-embroidered version.

Source: Telegraph.co.uk

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Thursday, April 23, 2009

New Artistic Director of Nina Ricci Paris Fashion House



Paris, France - Peter Copping has been named as the new artistic director at Paris fashion house Nina Ricci. The designer, who previously worked at Louis Vuitton, replaces Olivier Theyskens, who quit prematurely in March.

Copping, who is a graduate from the Royal College of Art and Central Saint Martins, told WWD, "I love all the French fashionisms, and Nina Ricci is very much a French house. It's going to feel very close to all the things I personally like."

Copping also added that he wants to shift the French brand's focus to be more women-centric. "I want the clothes to be very tactile, very luxurious - the kind of clothes a woman enjoys wearing," the designer added.

Copping, who previously worked under the creative direction of Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, will not hold his catwalk show until next March. It will enable him to fully understand the brand, Vogue.com reports.

Source: AHN

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Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Emma Watson "Seduced" By Karl Lagerfeld


Emma Watson felt "seduced" when she met Karl Lagerfeld.

The 'Harry Potter' actress has met the legendary German fashion designer several times, and admits she was star struck when he photographed her for a recent edition of French fashion magazine Crash.

Emma said: "I'd met Karl a few times before, at parties or something where we really couldn't talk. But this was a dream come true. We spent the whole day together, and he can talk about anything - literature, art, science, modern culture. I was totally seduced. I felt spoiled to be spending so much time with him."

Despite mixing with one of fashion's most renowned designers, the 18-year-old actress - who is rumoured to be starring in an upcoming advertising campaign for British fashion label Burberry - admits she rarely indulges in expensive clothing.

Referring to fairytale character Cinderella, whose expensive clothes disappear if she stays out too late, Emma told Interview magazine: "I don't really buy designer stuff. I have a few nice things, but I don't really have the occasion to wear couture too often. When I'm in a situation where I do need to dress up, I'm typically lent something - which means I have to give it back at midnight, like Cinderella."

Source: 3 News

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Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Akira Isogawa: Bridal Collection Elegance



Akira Isogawa's move into bridal wear has been an organic one and it is a venture that has his creative juices flowing.

After showing his spring-summer collection in Paris late last year the designer and his team made the decision to formalise a bridal offering, much to the delight of their customers.

Two of the styles from this collection have been made available in ivory and in the upcoming Tough Love range there will be four bridal gowns. Tough Love was launched during Paris Fashion Week in March and is expected to hit stores here in August.

Styles from previous collections will remain in the bridal range for a period of time and can be made-to-order.

"There is such demand for it," he said. "There are some bridal gowns literally with a waiting list because the craftsmanship is very time consuming with hand embroidery and hand crafted textiles, so it takes really three months to deliver to the clients."

The gowns are also available in red and black and feature hand embellishments such as embroidery and origami detailing.

"For me the exciting part of designing bridal wear is I can actually create my own fantasy," he said.

"I could be a little bit more extravagant about usage of fabrication. I could use maybe 10 metres of silk chiffon instead of two metres. When I design ready-to-wear, of course, we have to consider the cost factor but the bridal range allows us to indulge a little bit more in a sense."

Isogawa delivered his spring-summer collection to his Australian stores earlier this month. He showed off some of the pieces at an event at Sydney's The Strand Arcade recently, using the face of the arcade, and last year's Australia's Next Top Model winner Demelza Reveley.

It features stunning gowns using lightweight silk chiffon as well as more structured day dresses.

"The silk is actually my favourite textile to use at the moment because it drapes beautifully and you can actually mould it into your body," he said.

"It is hand painted. Particularly this season we have played with the colour but not necessarily ordinary prints, the hand painting can actually be more dynamic in terms of playing with colours."

A floral motif flows through many of the designs and as they are handpainted, every dress is a one-of-a-kind.

"Every single dress has a character," he said.

The global financial crisis is looming large over every industry and has already netted a few scalps in the Australian fashion world.

Isogawa said his strategy was to focus on his strengths and respond quickly to changes.

"I just continue doing what I've been doing really but a bit tighter and bit more focused," he said.

"Rather than actually trying to shoot three rabbits all at once focus on one rabbit so we'll most likely get it."

Source: The Age

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Monday, April 20, 2009

Designer Book On The Process



What would you make for the writer who has most influenced your life? The question has been asked of 50 of the world's best-known designers, from the couturiers Christian Lacroix and Paul Smith to the architect India Mahdavi.

Their imaginary creations for authors including Haruki Murakami and Ian Fleming will be shown in a series of exhibitions across Paris until September, and have been collated in Design et Littérature: Une Liaison Inspiré to be published this week.

The architect and designer Claudio Colucci conceived a lounge sofa made from carbon fibre for the James Bond writer Ian Fleming. "I have always liked the fantasy element in design," he said. "Too much function bores me. I thought of creating an amphibious car, but that already exists, so I designed a lounge-sofa for drinking champagne, for two, of course."

The fashion designer Christian Lacroix imagined a mid-20th Century wrought-iron chair for the French novelist, Patrick Modiano. Lacroix said: "I like his form of melancholy; like him, I'm nostalgic."

British designer Paul Smith has sketched a 19th-century-inspired chair, customised with old material, for lyric writer Patti Smith, his "favourite rock literary icon" and modern "capturer of emotions".

The architect India Mahdavi designed a cat-shaped sofa in homage to Japanese author Haruki Murakami. Mahdavi, who chose a cat because the animal appears throughout Murakami's work, said that when she was introduced to the novelist, "it was like entering someone's dream, in a universe where fantasy and reality are mixed".

The writer Esther Henwood said she thought of the idea for the series of exhibitions and the book because of her interest in the relationship between the arts. "The different art forms – music, design, literature, fashion – are seen as being separate," she said. "Yet they are interrelated ...

"All the designers told me how much they love and are influenced by literature in all their work, even if it is not apparent." She said she was so "delighted" by the responses that she told design houses limited editions of the works should be created.

"We are holding a series of exhibitions across Paris," she said. "Some of the works have been imagined for great literary figures, such as Proust, Tolstoy and Flaubert. Others were conceived for contemporary writers who will have the chance to see the designs that have been imagined."

Source: The Independent

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Friday, April 17, 2009

Pasarela Fashion Festival Second Edition


The second edition of Pasarela Fashion Festival to be held between 27 and 31 May in Bucharest will present French fashion and the new tendency of Romanian design. New collections and films inspired from the fashion world, like the premier “Coco avant Chanel”.“This year’s edition will be more important ,more special and will gather more guests,” said ambassador Heni Paula at a press conference. The Pasarela means this year prestigious personalities – Didier Grumbach from the French Fashion Institute will hold a conference “Two centuries of fashion” the ambassador announced mentioning that this year’s guests included the French fashion designer Richard Rene, who will present the new collection in Bucharest as a first, next to the local designer Adrian Oianu.Henri Paul also revealed that the “Pasarela” will also present four photo exhibitions inspired by fashion. Another dimension of the festival will be film presentations, among which the film “Coco avant Chanel”, in which actress Audrey Tautou will be Coco Chanel.“Another new element will be a fashion fair to turn to account creations of Romanian designers” Henri Paul added. The fashion festival “Pasarela”is organized by the French Embassy in Romania and the French Institute in Bucharest, in collaboration with the French Fashion Institute in Paris. It will also promote Romanian designers and make known the values of the French fashion industry to the Romanian public. Representatives of festival organizers denied the rumours according to which Carla Bruni- Sarkosy would be present at the festival.

Source: ActMedia

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Thursday, April 16, 2009

Beret Sales Double Up!

Sarkozy may have come under fire for his protectionist policies during the current financial gloom, but the citoyens are following his lead and storming French stores in search of everyone's favourite nationalistic headwear, the humble beret.

Sales figures have doubled, claim manufacturers in Orlon Sainte Marie, (the traditional beret-making region in the south-west of France), as yuppies, or bobos, as they're known over there, are becoming increasingly disillusioned with American and English influences, and seek to support the domestic economy by buying berets. Today's bobos, goes the theory, are getting back to their roots, looking nostalgically to the rural French idyll - although it remains to be seen whether they'll be accessorising their new headgear with a string of onions.

Originally worn by the guillotine thugs, the beret evolved from the French revolutionaries' red Phrygian caps, (worn by the sans-culottes as a mark of mutiny in the 18th century), and became the typical headgear of rural, and specifically male, agricultural workers in the south west of the country. It was also the chosen hat of the French resistance movement, giving rise to a legend among the French that the side you slant your beret to is an indication of your political stance: if your beret leans to the right, so you do - and vice versa.

It wasn't until the 1920s that the beret became a unisex item, when it was adopted by singer Marlene Dietrich, the first woman to don the paysan garb, and who scandalised society in doing so.

But as a part of French national dress, the item has all but disappeared from everyday life - some older men still wear them, reports one Parisian, but few young men do - and it has largely been adopted by women as a fashion statement. As well it might.

"Like all good hats, berets can accentuate the best features of a person to make them look more striking," says milliner Phillip Treacy, quoting Greta Garbo as his favourite beret wearer. In the mid-20th century it became a symbol of archetypal French glamour, associated with coffee-drinking philosophers like Jean-Paul Sartre (known for wearing his apolitically straight), and Gauloises-smoking starlets like Catherine Deneuve and Brigitte Bardot. The French uniform of matelot or Breton striped tops, teamed with cropped cigarette pants and ballet pumps may seem cliched, but it's as chic as it was when Jeanne Moreau first tripped across a bridge wearing just that in Truffaut's Jules et Jim. As the mark of a rebel, it spans the gamut of 20th-century icons, from Saddam Hussein and Che Guevara to Monica Lewinsky, so there must be something sturdier than mere style behind its universal appeal.

The fact that sale figures have risen may not be a nationalistic shift, but a further development of a trend in contemporary womenswear.

"It's the T-shirt of hats," says Stephen Jones, haute couture milliner. "Whether you're old or young, rich or poor, a beret suits everyone, and it's a very inexpensive way to transform your existing wardrobe. It's instant glamour, on the cheap." And it is this instant glamour that means everyone wants to bag a beret - Parisians are the first to tell you that American and Japanese tourists buy the garment by the armload.

But what of the French designers? Traditionally, they are keen to cash in on the rest of the world's Francophilia. Paris fashion houses Sonia Rykiel and Chanel regularly incorporate the beret in catwalk shows, and it was ubiquitous in both labels' spring/summer collections. But, while this season's autumn shows saw berets on the Milan catwalks (for the Italian labels Armani and Sportmax), the Paris designers seemed to leave them well alone.

Not only that, but Paris-based John Galliano took inspiration from the only nation still spending money, the Russians, while Rykiel (in a shocking change of national allegiance) showed bowler hats, while at Chanel there were squashed pork- pie hats - which seemed more reminiscent of London bankers than left-bank bohemians.

"Girls in Paris do wear berets as an affirmation of their Frenchness," says Jonathan Wingfield, the editor of French fashion magazine Numero, although he senses that there is an equivocal attitude toward the garment. "I wonder if some of this is about people 'shopping in their wardrobe', and wearing old accessories they used to wear when they were younger. To be honest, most of the young people that I see here in Paris are wearing British pork-pie hats, in the style of Agyness Deyn and Pete Doherty - that's what they think is really cool."

Source: Herald.ie

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Wednesday, April 15, 2009

French Fashion: A New Beginning, A New Twist


Whole tomes have been written dissecting French fashion. Hem-lengths, the precise cut of a sleeve or the way that darts are placed on the back of a tuxedo jacket are endlessly analysed. Yet the French approach can probably be summed up thus: dress for your man (rather than other women), wear what French women call “bourgeois staples”, and never buy into anything that's too fashionable. These core values, of course, aren't always that appealing to a British sensibility, where we usually prefer pile-it-on exuberance and mismatched dynamism. And yet, there's no denying that style aficionados the world over can't get enough of French labels.

Many of these have been around for years. You may well have heard of Vanessa Bruno, APC, Zadig & Voltaire or Isabel Marant (just some of the labels that we feature in our Parisian style feature on p10-11). For the most part they are rather classic - at least when compared, say, with the bonkers-ness of a Gareth Pugh fetish ensemble. Yet they are also the sort of clothes worn by women that we want to look like - you know, the ones who always do great bed-hair and make smoking (dare I say this?) still look the epitome of cool.

The underlying point of Parisian chic is that it's actually very conservative, even bourgeois and being called bourgeois in France isn't a euphemism for dull. Sales of black berets have doubled since the credit crunch - the symbol of French pride now constitutes a serious fingers-up to the collapse of the Anglo-Saxon economy. Instead, these labels, though all different in some way, are marked by an unifying aesthetic that addresses that very French idea of feeling “bien dans sa peau”, literally, good in your own skin.

The silhouettes are forgiving, anti-ageist and don't mark the wearer out as a fashion-victim. So why not just go to Gap and buy your “classics” there? Well, because the French look is also a little subversive and discreetly sexy (this is where dressing for your man comes into it). It speaks volumes that the Japanese paparazzi who tirelessly circle the fashion media are more interested in photographing the handful of French fashion editors they deem to be the ultimate image and taste-makers, than they are in snapping celebrities.

And despite the growing hype that surrounds brands such as Isabel Marant - which smacks at times of the emperor's new clothes - the popularity of French style continues to grow.

So what explains this resurgence? The vogue for pared-down, minimal lines has lot to do with it. If there's one thing that French women fear most, it's looking as if they have tried too hard or, worse still, that they look vulgar. And vulgarity is nigh-on impossible when all you've done is thrown a slouchy jacket in a neutral tone over a pair of mismatched, tailored trousers. “It's true,” says Val Margulies, co-founder of Aimé in Notting Hill, London, who has stocked APC, Isabel Marant and Les Prairies de Paris for the past ten years: “London style can at times look pretty trashy. You wouldn't see someone one in Paris wearing pink leggings from American Apparel in the way you that might see in Hackney. French girls want to look feminine.”

Just as importantly - and this is where the effect of the recession kicks in - these labels successfully interpret designer tailoring at an affordable mid-price. “What you are getting,” says Margulies “is the quality of designer clothing without the ridiculous prices, and this taps into how we want to shop now.”

Matthew Moore, the manager of The Shop at Bluebird in Chelsea, where French designers make up 40 per cent of the stock, agrees: “Labels such as Isabel Marant are perfect for consumers who want to pay £300 for a gorgeous dress but can't stretch to £1,000. These brands capture the essence of looking individual while sticking to the tailored silhouette that women want at the moment.”

The French may not have anything as vibrant and colourful as the clothes on our high street but our offerings are actually looking a little worn round the edges, as retailers try to figure out how best to survive an economic downturn.

The two-for-£20 tops that last only a season no longer hold the appeal that they once did. And who still gets a kick from bagging a pair of £5 ballet pumps, when we've all seen documentaries on the grim factory conditions for workers in the Far East. “Parisians just don't have that throwaway mentality,” points out Margulies. “These French designers have cornered the market in clothes that look special enough now, but which won't date after a season.”

Perhaps it still takes a dose of British irreverence to bring these sombre-coloured French labels to life, however. There's something undeniably appealing about the way Brits confer “cool” on an outfit. And, in the spirit of friendly rivalry, we wouldn't want to give away the “street style” trophy that we've held on to for the past decade, too easily.

Source: Times Online

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Tuesday, April 14, 2009

French Elle: Natural Look


Magazine editors seem to have noticed (at last!) that women need to see models and actresses in a truer form, without the work of makeup artists and retouchers to mask their pores, cellulite, and wrinkles. The upcoming issue of French Elle, which hits newsstands this weekend, features Eva Herzigova, Monica Bellucci, Sophie Marceau, Charlotte Rampling, and four other females sans fards, which literally means “without rouge.”

We’re totally psyched to see beautiful women in a more natural, albeit still extremely flattering light. Photographer Peter Lindbergh snapped the women, so they’re not anything like the horribly unattractive candids our friends take of us around 1 a.m. after we’ve ingested a few cocktails, but they’re the closest a fashion magazine is going to get.

Like Italian Vogue‘s black issue, this month’s French Elle is a step in the right direction for fashion magazines, but once a year isn’t enough. Shouldn’t we be able to see celebs looking more like themselves every month? I don’t mean in unattractive photos like the ones tabloids shoot, showing stars’ boogers and dry skin. Natural can be beautiful and at home in a glossy magazine. In this month’s Glamour, there’s a swimsuit story that features a curvy model, and everyone at The Frisky gushed over the model’s hot bod. But the headline reads: “Not a dental-floss-thing kind of girl? Then you’ll love the new old-school Hollywood trend, meant to flatter goddesses of every shape and size.” Why can’t we just integrate natural, more realistic beauty on a regular basis, without calling out the content: This is for all of our non-skinny readers!!!

It is rather wonderful, though, that unlike U.S. magazines that show celebs without makeup, these French Elle photographs make the natural look seem like a good thing. Look how good these women look, even when they let their imperfections show! Our tabloids, on the other hand, only draw attention to stars’ flaws, rather than their innate beauty.

Source: The Frisky

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Monday, April 13, 2009

Three Fashion Stores At Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport

Duty Free Paris, the joint venture between Aéroports de Paris and The Nuance Group, has opened three fashion stores at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 2A. The stores will trade under the Attitude brand name, and cover 295sq m in total.

Nuance’s Attitude concept was developed to house key fashion brands in dedicated, personalised space within a single store.

The three Attitude stores measure 70sq m, 92sq m and 133sq m respectively, and feature brands such as Longchamp, Kipling, Samsonite, Thomas Sabo, Swarovski, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, Lancel, Sonia Rykiel, Guess and, for the first time at Paris airports, Diesel, Wolford and Doré Doré.

Each of the stores features an event space that will be dedicated to trendy French brands. The partners said the offer had been tailored to cater for passengers at T2A, which mainly handles flights to North and South America, the Middle East, the UK and Asia.

Duty Free Paris General Manager Guy Bodescot said: “Our new joint venture started up in late January by taking over nine existing stores. These three Attitude concepts now introduced are the first shops really designed and built by Duty Free Paris, our newly set-up joint venture. We are proud to showcase our ability to present fashion brands in an exciting shop environment and look forward to growing our portfolio further in the course of 2009 and beyond.”

Aéroports de Paris Chairman & CEO Pierre Graff added: "The new sales points designed by Duty Free Paris will allow Aéroports de Paris to enhance the fashion and accessories offer. The products and new brands available at Terminal 2A respond precisely to the expectations of Paris-Charles de Gaulle's international clients. By the end of the year, we will have developed these new tailored stores for both Paris airports."

Source: The Moodie Report

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Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Fashion Designer Michael Kors Exhibit His Works


Museum opened in late February the first exhibition on the work of American fashion designer Michael Kors. The display will be up through Feb. 7, 2010.

Known for his role as a judge in the critically acclaimed television show "Project Runway," Michael Kors is recognized as one of America's preeminent sportswear designers and entrepreneurs.

The collection presented in the exhibition also is part of the legacy of Wendy Zuckerwise Ritter, said Dr. Anne Bissonnette, curator for the Kent State University Museum.

"It looks very put together because it's all from the wardrobe of one woman," Bissonnette said. "All of these are very businesslike. You aren't being flamboyant, you are a billboard for your company."

Bissonnette said that Ritter and Kors met when Kors was presenting trunk shows at Bergdorf Goodman, at the time when Ritter headed the Donna Karan boutique. When the Michael Kors flagship store opened on Madison Avenue in 2000, the recently married Wendy was asked to consider commuting between her new home in Dayton and Manhattan.

"She had developed an impressive clientele," Bissonnette said. "She had a knack for knowing just what her clients wanted. Michael asked her to come to New York, with her client list, when he started his store."

Between 2000 and her death in 2008, she commuted between Dayton and New York, according to information provided by the museum.

In 2010, when the exhibit will end, Michael Kors will celebrate 30 years in business, Bissonnette said. His namesake company, established in 1981, currently produces a range of products through his multiple labels and includes women's and men's ready-to-wear, women's accessories as well as fragrance and beauty products. In addition to his own labels, he designed for the French fashion house Celine between 1997 and January 2004, Bissonnette added. The 14 ensembles featured in the exhibition include garments produced for both his labels and for Celine.

"He makes things that are minimal, very simple but very well-made," Bissonnette said. "They are also very comfortable and chic. It's interesting for us to show this to our fashion students, who sometimes want to create these over-the-top garments that throw everything in. He pays attention to what people want. This is a business, and Michael has been in the business for about 30 years. He's not only a talented designer, but he's a good entrepreneur."

Bissonnette said that Kors described himself as "the oldest young designer in New York City."

According to information provided by the museum, Kors still participates in trunk shows where he spends time on the selling floor with customers, sales associates and merchants.

"I can make something beautiful, but if it doesn't work in real life, then to me it's a disaster," Kors stated in a media release. He stated his design and marketing strategies are not unlike those of Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan, whose shoulders he stands on. Even with his success, Kors remains cautious: "The minute you think you're there, you're done for."

Source: Aurora Advocate

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Chanel Mobile Art


High-end fashion brands are joining forces with artists to boost their image.

Luxury fashion houses have excelled for decades at creating beautiful emporiums in the hope of driving consumers through boutique doors to buy into the dream. These fashion stores can also remind consumers how powerful a brand is with no-expense-spared fit-outs. But as the bar rises and competition stiffens within the luxury industry, so too have the projects commissioned beyond the fashion realm. And it is all in the name of selling more bags, watches, pens, shoes and clothing.

Last week in Hong Kong, French fashion house Chanel officially launched its latest global power project, the ambitious Mobile Art. Commissioned by Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld, the futuristic mobile art gallery was designed by the Pritzker Prize-winning architect Zaha Hadid. Created from fibreglass panels, the 700-square-metre multimillion-dollar pavilion took six months to build and will be dismantled seven times to travel the world. For now its home will be Hong Kong's Star Ferry Car Park before it is packed into 65 containers and shipped to six more cities, ending its tour in Paris in 2010.

"The cost is not important. Chanel is about the dream," says Bruno Pavlovsky, director of Chanel's fashion division. "The project is more about building the Chanel image and what you see today is consistent with our vision for the next 10 years." The 20 commissioned artists had free reign to use any creative medium but all works had to be strictly inspired by the 2.55 quilted handbag designed by Coco Chanel in 1955.

Chanel's contemporary artists include Yoko Ono, Sophie Calle, Stephen Shaw, Wim Delvoye and Fabrice Hyber. Mobile Art curator and the editor-in-chief of the magazine Beaux-Arts Fabrice Bousteau says the initial list was "artists that I like - that's what a curator does. And all said yes, so we now have an exhibition with work by artists who have a strong personality and voice in their work."

The most controversial submission is Wim Delvoye's pigskin 2.55 bags (actually made in the Chanel workshop) and two stuffed tattooed pigs, named Jamie and Slobodan.

"We decided not to reject any project," Pavlovsky says. "Chanel herself was controversial, so to have pieces that evoke controversy is OK."

After the French artist Sophie Calle had accepted Chanel's commission, a work conflict led her to advertise in a Japanese magazine seeking an artist to carry out her project. Her vision was to stop passers-by, tell them to empty their bags and offer to buy both contents and the bag they were carrying. Soju Tao won the job with a bag budget of EUR11,000 ($17,794). Tao convinced several Chanel-toting strangers to hand over their bags with one 2.55 in the exhibition containing cash, house keys, a camera, mobile phone, an address book and Shirley MacLaine's book Out On A Limb.

Chanel is not the only luxury brand in recent times to collaborate with artists. Cartier's exhibition space in Paris is at its Foundation Cartier and features the work of contemporary artists and photographers. In 2004, Cartier gave the space to designer Jean-Paul Gaultier, who filled the room with intricate designer dresses made using bread. Hermes has exhibition spaces in its Ginza and Singapore boutiques, and currently has its Hbox mobile video theatre screening work by leading video artists at Paris Pompidou Centre.

In 2006, Louis Vuitton opened its permanent Espace Louis Vuitton gallery on the top floor of the luxury brand's Paris flagship store on the Champs-Elysees. The gallery opened with an exhibition called Alphabet Concept, by New York performance artist and photographer Vanessa Beecroft. Her 13 pictures portrayed nude women wearing clown wigs and with their bodies entwined to shape "LV". Also in 2006, nine artists, designers and architects, including Hadid, were commissioned to create bags for the exhibition space. The seventh and current exhibition, Orients Sans Frontiers, is inspired by the adventures of the automobile from Beirut to Beijing.

Currently running in Melbourne is High Art, a multi-venue exhibition which is part of L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival. Taking place on shopping strip High Street, Armadale, Australian designers Scanlan & Theodore, Kirrily Johnston, Lisa Ho, Arabella Ramsay, ksubi, Lee Matthews and Herringbone have collaborated with artists to create installations inside their stores.

Next week Montblanc will take over Sydney's Martin Place with its own "art" installation. Famous for its pens, Montblanc commissioned six contemporary artists and photographers, including David LaChapelle, Jean-Marc Bustamante, Sam Taylor-Wood, Sylvie Fleury, Gary Hume, and Anne and Patrick Poirier to create six shopping bag sculptures. Standing three metres high, the bags have been exhibited on the Champs-Elysees and the Rockefeller Centre.

Designer exhibition spaces have been criticised by the art world, which claims there can be no creative independence when artists are commissioned by a commercial patron.

Yves Carcelle, chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton Malletier, told the BBC at the opening of Espace: "The artists were free in their work. The main difference between art and creativity in fashion is that in fashion you need to sell the product. Art works only if you give it total freedom." When asked if Espace was designed to sell more handbags to tourists, especially the Japanese, who flock to the store to worship the logo-decorated luggage, the answer was: "Sell more handbags? Yes, that's my dream."

Chanel's Pavlovsky is also honest in what Mobile Art hopes to achieve: to sell more bags. "We hope the exhibition will create a strong image for the 2.55. Chanel No. 5 and the fashion already have its own iconic status."

Source: WA Today

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Monday, April 6, 2009

Chanel: Dimension To Music Glam

AN acoustic type of guitar made by a traditional European guitar manufacturer and styled in chic black and white by the French fashion House of Chanel as a striking accessory in its Spring/Summer 2009 fashion collection.

More specifically, it is a “classical guitar” which has six strings, three of which are made of steel and the other three, nylon.

Crafted according to ancestral techniques, this technically sound instrument has a bevelled body for better ergonomics and a mahogany rosette sound hole that is highlighted with a white-silkscreened Chanel signature logo of intertwining Cs.

The borders are hand-painted and varnished to match the white Chanel insignia splashed indiscreetly across the back of this black guitar.

The accompanying strap is a sporty canvas one in elegant stripes of brown, white and black held together with black leather tabs embossed with the double C logo.

To hold and protect this luxury musical instrument, Chanel’s creative head Karl Lagerfeld offers a choice of an elegant white quilted leather case or a two-toned canvas case.

It’s the perfect musical instrument for the ardent music lover, who reveres luxury.

Lagerfeld’s latest fusion of music and fashion luxury does not steer much from the classic aesthetics of the Chanel brand and makes an outstanding showpiece in the study when not in use.

For Lagerfeld, the reason for this stand-out piece was because “Coco Chanel had an affair with Stravinsky, mine was with a guitar”.

Available now by special order only. Price upon request.

Source: The New Straits Times

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Saturday, April 4, 2009

Classical Carla Bruni-Sarkozy Versus Daring Michelle Obama

Paris, France — The world's two most glamorous first ladies met Friday on the sidelines of the NATO summit, giving observers an insight into their very different approaches to style.

For the new occupant of the White House, Michelle Obama, a touch of boldness. For the Elysee Palace's Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, wife of the French president, a more classical style. Or so fashion experts in Paris say.

After several years marked by a lack of glamour, the two women had refocused attention on style in the world of politics, Vincent Gregoire, director of creation at the Nelly Rodi trend forecasting agency, told AFP.

They shared another point in common, said Florence Mueller, who teaches at the French Fashion Institute: "The ability to dress in very simple things."

"Carla Bruni can be in jeans, a pullover with a scarf, (and) adopt an extremely simple style with which a lot of women can identify," she said.

Michelle Obama "has herself claimed her ability to dress in very widely sold brands such as J.Crew and Gap," Mueller added.

This was a new development for first ladies, said Mueller: " a very strong message." They showed that you could be elegant on a modest budget.

"The difference will be in the clothes they wear on formal occasions," she added.

Former model Bruni-Sarkozy, 41, goes for French designers, in particular Dior said Mueller: a commitment to French luxury group (LVMH), "to support its interests and development," Mueller said.

For Gregoire, she "has a very French approach to fashion, which is to promote rather upmarket creations."

With lawyer Obama "it is completely different," Gregoire added.

"She never wears the big names or 'vintage' clothes," preferring "to promote an American creativity, an orginality born of diversity."

Obama supports "independent designers with whom she falls in love," Mueller noted.

Isabel Toledo, the US designer of Cuban origin, who designed the pale gold sheath dress and coat Obama wore to her husband's inauguration, "has been fighting for 25 years, not to survive, but almost, in the American commercial world."

Bruni-Sarkozy, for her part, was recently seen in a dress by Alexis Mabille, a rising star in the world of French fashion.

Both first ladies adopted a low profile, said Gregoire.

For Mueller, Obama had found the "exact balance between respect for her status" and creativity.

Bruni-Sarkozy was trying to adopt a more modest image.

But that sometimes meant she ended up looking like an air hostess, said Gregoire, referring to the grey outfits she likes to wear, such as that in Strasbourg on Friday.

"As she has a figure to wear exceptional clothes, when she dresses relatively discreetly and simply, she soon looks a bit like a classic granny. She takes no risks."

Obama's approach was more simple, somewhere between a fashionable housewife and mother of a family, who knows what does and does not suit her, said Gregoire.

But "she is a bit more daring, even if it means getting it wrong," he added.

"We are still waiting for Carla let herself go."

Source: AFP

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Friday, April 3, 2009

Superb Fashion Is Not A Dream

The famous French diss was on the tip of everyone's tongue at the haute couture fashion shows that started in Paris.

While economies around the world crumble, the small band of couture designers snubbed such cold realities and asked their audience to suspend disbelief – to dream.

Christian Lacroix's bride combined full tulle skirts with gleaming embroidered matador jacket. For Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld explored the contradictory elements of floral overstatement and clean modern minimalism all in white. Jean Paul Gaultier's Spanish collection riffed on the sultry flamenco dancer and Picasso's sculptural cubism.

Unlike ready-to-wear collections that are shown in fashion capitals six months ahead of their season, couture shows are mounted just weeks before the time the designs are meant to be worn.

The spring/summer shows, narrowed down to just three days this season, are composed of one-of-a-kind spectacles intended only for the extremely rich. Though the market for such confections may be dwindling, they continue to pitch glamour against the economic odds.

And despite a downturn in the global economy, chances are slim that these luxurious suits and dresses will ever be discounted.

Still, they attract an audience – burlesque star Dita Von Teese, actress Mischa Barton and rapper Kanye West.

For Dior, British designer John Galliano referenced the early days of Christian Dior as well as paintings by 17th-century Dutch masters. Consider a magical mix of billowy puff sleeves, fitted torsos and magnificently giant loopy skirts.

It might seem insensitive to flaunt such excess. But it ain't called haute for nothin'.

As an institution, haute couture is in palliative care. Yet it won't lie down.

And as sure as each passing season it becomes more of an anachronism, its defenders leap to justify its existence.

They wax on about its magical, fantastical nature – how important it is to experiment with the limits of fabric and cut and drape, how important it is to escape the realities of a sometimes hard-knock world.

"Something to make people dream," said Bernard Arnault, chair and chief executive of LVMH Group and Christian Dior, after Monday's show.

While he predicted things wouldn't get better until the end of 2010, many fashion watchers lament that haute couture has been on a long, steady march toward irrelevancy for decades.

John Galliano told reporters: "There is a credit crunch, not a creative crunch. Of course, everyone is being more careful with their discretionary purchases. I am. But it's our job to make people dream, and to provide the value in quality, cut and imagination."

Source: TheStar.com

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Thursday, April 2, 2009

French Designer Pierre Cardin Unloading His Fashion Empire

Pierre Cardin DesignsFashion designer Pierre Cardin is looking to sell his company. Known for his avant-garde designs, Cardin doesn't put on fashion shows anymore, but his substantial empire includes restaurants, hotels, food products with his name, and numerous other licensing deals. The 86-year-old french fashion designer tells the new issue of Fantastic Man, "The asking price is 1 billion euros [about $1.3 billion], and if prospective buyers can't pony up the funds, then that's their problem, not mine. It's not like I'm strapped for cash." Cardin says he hammered out a deal last year, but it fell apart along with the economy. Also, Roberto Cavalli had wanted 1.4 billion euros for his company last July and never got it. So yeah. He and Pierre should do lunch.

I want Pierre Cardin to stay into this business because he's a genius but "business is business". Cardin don't have a choice but to sell it. All of us are affected by the global crisis and one of them makes a move to reconstruct (I guess so). Cardin makes a big noise on the fashion field and having a nice collection, he is on the top list of fashion icons and truly a genius.

Source: NY Fashion

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Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Sulaimi Brookman: Spring Seduction Sensation

Seduction, playfulness and “playing hard to get” are all themes which have inspired a Birmingham-based fashion designer’s new spring collection.

Sulaimi Brookman, whose creations have been spotted on Atomic Kitten star Liz McClarnon and members of the cast of Hollyoaks and Emmerdale, is gearing up to the launch of his first ready-to-wear spring collection.

The 30-year-old Singapore-born designer has taken inspiration from the decadence of French history, with the queen Marie Antoinette and the film Dangerous Liaisons heavily influencing his new collection.

Sulaimi, who moved to Birmingham’s creative hub the Custard Factory 18 months ago, said he was aiming to capture a certain attitude towards dressing represented by the decadent French queen.

The collection will include a mixture of separate pieces, which can be dressed up or dressed down, as well as some key formal evening-wear pieces.

Sulaimi recently showed his collections at a packed-out fashion show as part of the launch of Fazeley Studios in Digbeth, home to the cream of Birmingham’s fashion, design and creative businesses.

Sulaimi started his fashion career in Singapore after studying at the prestigious Raffles Design Institute where he developed his signature tailoring style.

After a period working in upmarket fashion retail at a Versace boutique, he decided to go back to design, setting up his own business in the Custard Factory.

Source: Birmingham Mail

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